Twisted Metal Promotions (TMP)
2023 Super Stock
RULES AND REGULATIONS
https://twistedmetalpromotions.weebly.com/
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All decisions shall be made by the track officials and all decisions are FINAL no Exceptions. ***If car does not pass inspection & driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection – ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS OR RUNNING OF EVENT***
General Rules
Car Preparation
Car building:
BUMPERS:
HOMEMADE BUMPERS:
General Rules
- Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 16 –17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event!
- Must have helmet and eye protection. Full face helmets, fire jacket/pants recommended.
- ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting.
- DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
- If the driver or passenger door comes open or more than one fire this could cause you to be disqualified. You may fix it and come back and run the consolation.
- Must run a heat race to run in the consolation or feature.
- NO sandbagging or holding!!! This can cause you to be disqualified! You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up.
- No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, this could cause you to be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
- Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may pro-test another car. Drivers must have cash in hand directly after a feature event in order to pro-test.
- You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car.
- If it doesn’t say you can do it, this means more than likely you can’t do it. Judges' decisions are FINAL!!!!
Car Preparation
- Anything can be removed unless stated in the rules, Nothing can be added unless stated in the rules or approved by officials.
- All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
- Any American made sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1970 or older Lincoln’s! No 1973 or Older imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc...
- 2003 & newer Ford, Lincoln’s, & Mercury’s will be allowed, all super stock rules will apply, except for the following:
- Front cross-member, steering and steering components must remain stock OE for make, model and year of car. Absolutely no aftermarket. A-arms and spindles may be changed; parts must be factory OE A-arms and spindles. Direct bolt on only. No modifying suspension to fit or modifying frame to make suspension fit. Must mount in stock/factory locations.
- Aftermarket or homemade metal engine mounting brackets are ok but must be attached to factory cross-member only, cannot be bolted/welded/attached to frame/frame rails in any way and cannot strengthen or reinforce frame/car in any way, Motor must be mounted in stock location.
- You will be allowed three 4” X 6” X ¼” thick repair plates per frame rail on pre-ran cars only. Plates must remain rectangular; plates cannot measure any bigger than 4” X 6” in any direction, THIS MEANS NO diamond shaped plates. NO using angle iron as a plate and no excessive amount of welding. The plates may be welded solid and can be rolled over to 2 sides to the frame but must remain flat on frame. You can have no more than 4 plates on the front of the car. Center door post divides the car in half. Plates must be completely on frame, no standing plate on edge to weld and no shaping or cutting of plates. You must have a 1/2-inch hole in the patch. No re-patching or layering of patches. All plates must have a 1-inch gap between any frame bracket, bumper bracket and other repair plates including welds. Reminder no plates on a fresh car. On a pre-ran car if a plate is put where the frame is not bent as stated in the rules, the plate will be cut off completely including the welds plus an additional plate, so do not abuse this rule (Judges' decision on plates to be sacrificed). Be fair to us and we will be fair to you.
- Front cross-member, steering and steering components must remain stock OE for make, model and year of car. Absolutely no aftermarket. A-arms and spindles may be changed; parts must be factory OE A-arms and spindles. Direct bolt on only. No modifying suspension to fit or modifying frame to make suspension fit. Must mount in stock/factory locations.
- All glass, plastic, chrome, interior, trash, decking in station wagons, trailer hitches and braces must be removed!!!
- Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims or studded tires. Foam filled, doubled tires and Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
- You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location.
- Cars must have working brakes.
- A-arms, ball joints and steering components must remain OE stock or OE stock replacement. No aftermarket.
- Gas tanks must be removed, you may use a well-made fuel cell or metal tank. Plastic aftermarket gas tanks must be placed in a metal box and covered. All tanks must be properly secured and in a safe place!! No plastic or metal gas cans. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. You are allowed 1 electric inline fuel pump must be secured in a safe place and must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – the fuel pump shuts off. (No high-performance fuel pumps.) ANY UNSAFE, UNSECURED OR LEAKING TANKS OR FUEL LINES, WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO RUN!!!!
- Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
- Batteries must be relocated to the passenger floor board and must be secured properly and covered.
- Limited amount of spray foam no spray foaming in areas where inspectors need to inspect cars (if in areas that need to be inspected you may be asked to remove all spray foam).
Car building:
- NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in the below rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what’s allowed, you will not run!!
- NO PAINTING, UNDERCOATING, OILING, OR GREASING OF FRAMES.
- No relocating any part of frame, suspension, or body mounts, etc.
- Doors may be chained, wired, bolted (cannot go around the frame), or welded shut. May weld doors solid with no bigger than 3” wide strap by 1/8” thick.
- For driver’s protection, you must have a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, maybe welded or bolted it may be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which may be welded or bolted to the top of the frame or floor must be vertical – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Side bars can only be 60” long; this does include a dash bar and halo bar and be 6” from floor. Dash bar must be no farther back than the front of the inside front door seam; no part of the cage can extend past the back of the dash cowl.
- You must have 2 bars or wires from roof to dash in the windshield for safety. Window bars can only be 3 inches wide with 5 inches on the roof and 5 inches on the dash. But must be able to escape from the car.
- You are allowed 2 down bars per side going down from the inside cross bar. Front down bars must be behind the inside of the front door interior seam and the 2nd bar must stay in the door area or will be cut out. Welded to the top of the frame only, no added metal. Down bars must be vertical and not exceed 4” diameter. All other cage components can be too or near 6” diameter. ALL CAGE AND CAGE MATERIAL EXCEPT HALO BAR MUST BE INSIDE THE CAR. ALL CAGES MUST BE SAFE AND SECURE!!!
BUMPERS:
- Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, factory bumper must remain factory shaped. Bumpers may be stuffed inside of the original bumper only. Homemade bumpers will be allowed or you may use a flat square or round tube no bigger than 6” (6x6 square or 6 inch round) ⅜” thick. This must remain flat, no shaping or filling tubing. All bumpers and tubing can’t be any wider than the car fenders. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Bumpers and brackets may be welded solid. Brackets are interchangeable from car to car. If you don’t use the factory front brackets to the car, you’ll be limited to a 14” bracket from the end of frame. Brackets must stay factory length or can be shortened but you CAN’T stretch out brackets to make them longer. If you don’t use a factory bumper bracket you may use a 4”X14”-long 3/8 thick flat plate. This plate must be welded to the bumper. The bumper plate can only be welded on the outside of the frame and can only follow the frame, no shaping or wrap of plate. Brackets can be welded solid but can only be welded to 1 side of the frame. NO Brackets may be stuffed inside of the frame rail. You can have 1 plate per side or 1 bracket per side not both and must be welded to the outside of the frame. Radiator support spacers or front body mount washers can not be welded to the bumper. You may have 4 spots 9 wire no more than 4 loops or 1 wrap of 3/8 chain from front bumper to radiator support-4 spots 9 wire no more than 4 loops from or 1 wrap of 3/8 chain rear bumper to trunk lid. Front brackets on front only!!!
HOMEMADE BUMPERS:
- No sharp edges or points, flat surface on bumper on all sides. Part A Back to point no more than 14”, Part B no less than 32” wide, Part C no more than 7” thick and Part D no more than 9” no less than 6”
HOOD/TRUNKS:
BODY MOUNTS:
FRAME:
SUSPENSION:
ENGINE MOUNTING:
STEERING:
FENDERS:
RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
MISC:
Any car that has an excessive amount of issues or time consuming changes (plates, cage, suspension, ect. or simply doesn't read the rules), inspection will stop and you will be asked to load. These rules are explanatory and easy to understand if they are read, with all this in mind this will speed up the inspection process.
- Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. You will be allowed 8 spots to hold the hood down (bolts, chain or wire); you MUST have at least 4 spots holding hood down- hood hinges don’t count! You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may be used from the hood down to the frame, but must go through the front body mount spacers in stock location. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material – All thread may pass through frame. Hood hold down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch and must be free floating. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter and 5 inches long.
- You are allowed 12-3/8” bolts with standard 3/8” washers to bolt hood skins together.
- You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of the wagon roof!
- Car must have a hood or you will not run, no exception.
- Body creasing is allowed, no double rolling of creases. Trunks can be dished but must be able to see inside the trunk area completely.
- 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, or you may use 9 wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from the trunk lid and may go around the frame with the 9 wire. CAN’T DO BOTH. (wagon roofs are not trunk lids) If you use all thread you are only to use 4 nuts and 4 washers per piece of all thread.
- Trunk lids and tailgates may be chained/ wired/ bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal, in 12 spots in the drip rail area. The bolts may not be any bigger than 3/8” in size and 4” long. If chain/wire/bolts are not used, you can weld 5 inches skip 5 inches using no bigger than 3 inch wide materials. CAN’T DO BOTH. No welding of the tucked area or no welding of sheet metal folded over the trunk lid.
BODY MOUNTS:
- Body mounts must remain stock, no adding of body mounts. You can replace the bolt with a 1/2” diameter factory length bolt, bolt must be up inside of the frame as factory with nothing up inside the frame except 1- 3X3X1/4” thick washer then a nut and 1- 3X3-1/4” thick washer on top of floor. No added body mounts allowed! YOU may use a solid mount between body and frame. The mount spacer can’t be bigger than 3X3 and must be 1 1/4” tall pipe or tubing. NO welding of any part of body mounts, spacers, or washers. If any part of the body mount is found welded you will not run. Body cannot be bolted directly to the frame (must have a spacer). Nothing can act like a gusset or reinforcement of any kind!!
- If you use all-thread in the hood or trunk, the body mount rubber may be replaced with a steel body mount of the same thickness as factory rubber mount- 1 1/4”. Radiator support spacers can’t be any taller than 6 inches and 3X3 inch tubing; only this body spacer will be allowed to be welded to the top of the frame or bottom of the radiator support body/sheet metal. CAN’T DO BOTH.
FRAME:
- No frame shaping except for beating in the sides only of rear arches over tires. Nothing else.
- Cold bending of frames will be allowed. No cross members welded to the cold bend area or angle for crossmember.
- You may cut off the front frame rails!!! But the factory body mount bracket/hole in the frame must be there completely. No relocating any part of frame, suspension, body mounts, etc.
- When you re-stub a car, you must use the exact same type of frame that came factory with the car. Frame must match the same make/model, same ERA of the car 70’s to 70’s, 80’s to 80’s, etc. Gm to Gm, Mopar to Mopar, etc. No caddy frames or stubs under NON-Caddy cars. If the center of your car is a C –channel frame you must use a C- channel middle stub -
- You must cut the frame behind the tranny cross member; you are allowed to butt weld the two frames back together and are allowed to wrap butt weld with 1 inch wide 1/8” thick strap.
- You are not allowed to place your cross member, cross member angle iron or any other type of extra support to the butt weld area.
- No tipping frame at cut. If the two frame rails aren’t straight/level with each other, you will not run!
SUSPENSION:
- Suspension must be at stock. Leaf springs must be stock, Stock springs only! 2-inch stagger behind rear end and a 1-inch stagger on the front of rear end on all leaf springs. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can loop chain, wire or cable from rear end or springs to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger than 4 loops of 9 wire or 1 wrap of 3/8” chain or 1 wrap of 3/8” cable may be used. If you use all thread rods (1in or less) for rear springs from rear end to frame, this can NOT attach to the body and will count as 1 of your 2 spots to chain, wire, cable rear end to frame rails. You may double your coil springs. Leaf spring cars will be allowed 6 clamps on each spring pack. The clamps may be home-made. Home-made clamps not to be larger than 2-inch-wide by 5 inches long flat strap. No more than 4 bolts to mount to leaf springs. No more than 9 leaf springs in any car! This includes tow package springs!
- Front A-arms will be allowed to be held down by using 2 - 1/2” bolts in 2 spots or 2”x2”x1/4” strap, 1 strap/bolt on the front side of the A-arm and 1 strap/bolt on the back side of A-arm. Straps must be welded to the side of the frame only. (CAN’T DO BOTH) You may use 1 loop of 3/8” chain around the frame and over the A-arm. No welding. Not too excessive with a loop of chain as the loop of chain can only be on 1 side of the A-arm!
- All front and rear suspension parts must be factory car suspension. Direct bolt on only. No homemade or after-market. No altering of suspension or frames to make suspension fit.
- May use any OEM style car or light truck rear end that does include 8 lug floaters. Bracing ok.
- Rear end or rear end bracing may not act as a gusset to frame or car.
- Pinion-brakes are allowed and can only have 1 strap welded to rear end tubes on each side but must be welded next to the center carrier. Stock rear ends only No aftermarket or homemade! All other rear suspension must remain stock.
- Watts-link conversions allowed may use a bolt in upper tray for top control arms or bolt a 3x3 square tube to factory tray to bolt factory upper control arms too and may weld a factory bottom bracket on inside of frame in factory location for factory lower control arms. No reinforcing or strengthening of package tray or lower mounts. Upper mounts must be bolted, not welded.
ENGINE MOUNTING:
- Engine mounts may be welded to the engine cradle/cross member. Engine must be mounted in stock location. You may use a front lower engine cradle and pulley protector mount to mount your engine sway bar must be removed when using a pulley protector.
- NO Distributor cap protector or full cradle will be allowed!!! Motor mounts can’t strengthen or reinforce the frame in any way.
- Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You must use a factory cross member or a 2” X 2” tubing welded to frame with nothing else added for mounting transmission. No shaping of cross members, no using cross members as a gusset!!This can be out of another car. Tranny cross members must mount in the factory location for the car only! NO Tranny Braces. NO steel tail housings. Ultra Bell housing and steel bell housings ok, you will be required to cut the floor out over/around bell housing completely and the floor must have a 2 inch gap between sheet metal and back of bell housing and must have a factory OEM transmission mount or free floating.
- Must be a factory OEM cased transmission, no specialty housing, or homemade housings.
- If running a standard transmission may use a steel scattered shield you will be required to cut the floor out over/around bell housing completely and the floor must have a 2 inch gap between sheet metal and back of bell housing and must have a factory OEM transmission mount or free floating.
- If we feel you are trying to use the engine and or transmission to brace the frame/car from not bending, you will be changing or cutting or loading it!
- You may have a (2) 3/8” chains from the motor head to frame and you may weld 1 link of chain to the top of the frame under the motor only next to the A-arm on the front side of the motor. Only 1 length of chain per side.
STEERING:
- Tie-rods, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering components/suspension parts must remain stock OEM or OEM replacement parts, No aftermarket or specialty parts or reinforcing. Steering column may be changed to aftermarket shafts. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc. are ALLOWED. May change the steering box but must bolt in factory location and bolt to factory steering components.
FENDERS:
- You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.
RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
- You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair it.
- You will be allowed 4-repair plates on fresh cars to start with. 2 plates on each side. Plate size is 4” X 6” –1/4-inch thick only. Plates must remain rectangular; plates cannot measure any bigger than 4” X 6” in any direction, THIS MEANS NO diamond shaped plates. NO using angle iron as a plate and no excessive amount of welding. The plates may be welded solid and can be rolled over to 2 sides to the frame but must remain flat on frame. Plates must be completely on frame, no standing plate on edge to weld and no shaping or cutting of plates. You must have a 1/2-inch hole in the patch. No re-patching or layering of patches. All plates must have a 1-inch gap between any frame bracket, bumper bracket and other repair plates including welds!
- You will be allowed 3 more repair plates on each side of the car to use to repair rust or bent frames for a total of 10 plates. You can have no more than 5 plates per frame rail. You can have no more than 8 plates on the front of the car. Center door post divides the car in half. No layering of plates must have a 1-inch gap between welds of plates. This will be the only repair plates allowed! Plates are only allowed on the frame rails. Nothing to cage, engine, transmission, car body, etc.! IT’S the driver’s responsibility to show the inspectors the bend or rust in the frame.
- If you use a plate on the front of a Ford box, you can NOT fill the corner over the factory tab on the box. You must leave it open to prove to the officials that the factory tab is still in stock location. If we cannot see it, you will have to cut until we can see that the tabs haven't been cut or messed with!
- Metric Gm’s (1978 & newer) will be allowed hump plates, 4”x 20”x1/4” thick. Weld to only one side of the frame. Hump plates must be on the tire side of the frame only. No rolling to the second side of the frame. No shaping of hump plates. Must have the center of the arch covered. Plates will be measured with string across both top and bottom sides of the plate. Hump plate must follow the frame. Hump plates are part of the 10 plate rule. All rust and frame repair rules apply. Do not exceed the 10 plate rule.
- Please keep in mind, repair plates are for rusted frames or bent frames only, they are not intended to be used as reinforcement of frames. If a plate is put where the frame is not bent, rusted, or allowed/stated in the rules, the plate will be cut off completely including the welds plus an additional plate, so do not abuse this rule (Judges' decision on plates to be sacrificed). Be fair to us and we will be fair to you.
- No adding repair plates at the event.
MISC:
- You can run the shifter through the floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – the fuel pump shuts off.
- You are allowed 1 spot per window opening with 4 loops of 9 wire from the roof and may go to the frame. Must stay in the window opening. No welding washers around holes on the car body.
- You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath the back of the car, behind the rear-end with 4 loops of 9 wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, this cannot be bolted to the frame.
- You are allowed slider shafts.
- Gas tank protectors are allowed, no wider than 24 inches, and must be at least 2” away from rear sheet metal. It must run straight back from the rear seat bar in the center of the car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tanks can’t be connected to a protector unless the gas tank is mounted to the top of the protector and not to the floor. Protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but a back bar! If you try to use the cage or protector to reinforce the car (judge’s decision) you will be asked to cut or change it.
- Aftermarket gas pedals and brake pedals are allowed to be mounted to the cage or body not to frame or be used as a gusset or re-enforce the car in any way.
Any car that has an excessive amount of issues or time consuming changes (plates, cage, suspension, ect. or simply doesn't read the rules), inspection will stop and you will be asked to load. These rules are explanatory and easy to understand if they are read, with all this in mind this will speed up the inspection process.